以浪为师以天地为师以人为师

——从《冲浪英豪》看生命的三重哲学

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You just gotta appreciate everything. And that's one of the most important things in life, is just really appreciating it, because, you know, we only get to do this once, and it's not for a long time, so, enjoy it.”—Jay Moriarity

“你必须感激一切。(剩余7644字)

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