20世纪中西服饰融合下马面裙的结构重组

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引文格式：.20 世纪中西服饰融合下马面裙的结构重组[J].纺织高校基础科学学报，2025，38（3）：87-94.WANG Xiaowen， YANG Wenyan，WANG Shujuan. Structural reconstruction of the Mamian skirt under Sino-Westernclothing integration in the 2Oth Century[J].Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities，2O25，38（3）：87-94.

关键词马面裙；仙鹤江崖海水纹；结构重组；逆向还原；西方服装；中国风

中图分类号：TS941.71 文献标志码：A

DOI：10.13338/j.issn.1006-8341.2025.03.010

AbstractThe deep colision between Chinese and Western clothing cultures in the early 2Oth century gave rise to a typical practice of cros-cultural integration in traditional Chinese clothing.Using the green Mamian skirt coat with cranes，clifs，and waves patterns，currently housed in the China Silk Museum，as the research object，we systematically analyzed its structural reconstruction logic and reverse restoration pathway through craftsmanship investigation， measurement and structural reconstruction techniques. The results show that this garment creatively integrates Chinese and Western design philosophies，transforming the traditional Mamian skirt from two-dimensional garment into a three-dimensional Western-style coat，thereby overcoming the limitations of traditional Chinese two-dimensional tailoring. Compared to pattern borrowing and direct wearing approaches，the structural reconstruction model demonstrates significant advantages in three dimensions： adaptability to wearing functions，continuity of core patterns，and efficiency in fabric utilization. The structural redesign of the Mamian skirt provides empirical reference for the Sino-Western clothing integration.

Keywords Mamian skirt; cranes， cliffs and waves patterns; structural reconstruction; reverse restoration；Western garment;chinoiserie

0 引言

20世纪是中西方文化交流碰撞的重要转折点，双方的文化交流随着工业革命、经济发展等发生巨大变化，从单向的输入输出到相互融合，这一变化深刻地反应在中国传统服饰结构的转变中[1]。（剩余11436字）